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Breeding Parrotlets By: Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S. Many people who discover parrotlets are so enchanted with their delightful personalities that they decide to breed them. It is because of that reason and the fact many people keep more than one pet parrotlet, I coined the phrase "Parrotlets are like potato chips, one is never enough". Parrotlets make wonderful "first parrots" for many people who might otherwise be intimidated by a larger hook bills yet want something more unique than a budgie or cockatiel. They are much quieter than lovebirds which many people find appealing. Parrotlets are also sexually diamorphic (you can tell males from females) which makes it easy for both beginners and breeders of other birds. Basics of Breeding Parrotlets Generally speaking, parrotlets are fairly easy to breed. Most parrotlet species only need to be a year old to breed, the exception being the Mexican, Blue Wing and Yellow Face which breed after two years. They do not need a large flight but only keep one pair in a cage. This is true even if in a large flight; parrotlets are very aggressive and territorial and will kill other birds, including other parrotlets if housed together. Mexican parrotlets are the exception and the only parrotlets that can be safely colony bred. Breeding parrotlets also have certain dietary requirements including a diet much higher and fat and protein than other parrots. They also eat a tremendous amount of food, much more than cockatiels and lovebirds. Finally, parrotlets do breed better when you have more than one pair (another good excuse for more potato chips) and when they can hear each other but not see each other. Pacific Parrotlets Pacific or Celestial parrotlets are the most popular of the pet parrotlets and for good reason. They are the most parrot-like in personality. Hand-fed babies make wonderful pets and quickly become beloved members of the household. However, Pacifics can be a handful at times and can be stubborn. As with any pet, they need to be properly trained and taught limits from the beginning. Pacifics usually make good parents and can even be used to foster other parrotlet species. On a first clutch it is not unusual for them to have problems, they will usually do a wonderful job with the second once they gain experience. Green Rump Parrotlets Another common species, Green Rump parrotlets are also the smallest. They can be timid, shy parrotlets and can be frightened by new situations although they usually come around with time. They just need a little more patience and understanding. Green Rumps can be more difficult to breed than Pacifics and are much more sensitive to disturbances. They need quiet and security as well as a diet higher in protein in order to raise high quality chicks.Spectacle Parrotlets Non-existent in the United States before 1992, Spectacle parrotlets have proven to be both easy to breed and very prolific. The International Parrotlet Society also sponsored a breeding cooperative for Spectacles when they first came into the country and it has been so successful Spectacles are now available for pets. They are intensely curious birds, even more so than Pacifics, but without that stubborn streak so common in their cousins. All parrotlets consume a lot of food but Spectacles eat more than any other parrotlet so make sure they always have food available. Mexican Parrotlets Mexican parrotlets are as different from the other species as night and day. Unlike the others, they have a specific breeding season which is late summer. They can also be kept in colonies although I prefer to breed mine in single cages. Mexicans are also the most northernly-found species as all the rest come from Central and South America. Unlike other parrotlets, they produce only one clutch a year, sometimes every other year. Their babies even take longer to hatch than the others. They can be very difficult to breed and are spectacularly beautiful especially when in a planted aviary. Few people are breeding them in captivity which is very sad because they are rapidly diminishing in their native country. Habitat destruction, human encroachment and illegal smuggling are all contributing to the Mexican parrotlets' demise. Fortunately, the International Parrotlet Society is trying to save these magnificent parrotlets by sponsoring a breeding cooperative and studbook. I have found the most successful way to breed these parrotlets is to separate the males and females into large flights after the breeding season. In the spring, they are put into individual breeding cages. After they produce, they are then placed back into flights, again, separated by sex. Mexicans breed best when they are at least two years old. Blue Wing Parrotlets Blue Wing parrotlets are often confused with Mexican parrotlets due to their relative size and color. However, Blue Wings are not as barrel-shaped as Mexicans nor do they have brilliant turquoise but more violet blue. Although not as difficult to breed as Mexicans, they can be difficult to get settled and it is not unusual for them to take six months to a year before going to nest. However, once they get started breeding, they will have multiple clutches and are usually pretty good parents. They, like Mexicans parrotlets, should be bred at two years of age. Yellow Face Parrotlets There are very few Yellow Face parrotlets in the United States and even fewer that are not hybrids, although they are fairly common in Europe. They are only found in one valley in Peru but are readily bred in captivity. Yellow Face must be at least two years old before being bred and should have a larger cage than the other parrotlets. The International Parrotlet Society is sponsoring a breeding cooperative and studbook for Yellow Face and is working on a permit to import more captive-bred parrotlets from Europe. Slater's Parrotlets Sclater's parrotlets have never been imported into the United States and are rare even in Europe. I have no experience with these beautiful birds which are reputed to be the deepest, darkest colored of the parrotlets. Dr. Al Decoteau is the only person with documented evidence of having bred Sclater's parrotlets. Unfortunately, his birds were killed in a house fire in the 1980's and none of these parrotlets are believed to exist in the United States. Housing Breeding PairsMost species breed well in a minimum cage of 18 inches tall, 24 inches long and 24 inches deep. They can also be bred successfully in three to six foot long flight cages. Both Mexicans and Yellow Face breed much better in flights than in small cages. Not surprisingly, many breeders feel their parrotlets are in much better condition and have more production with large flights. Perches must be sturdily attached to the cage as infertility can sometimes be traced to wobbly or unstable perches. Natural wood branches should be used instead of dowels to exercise the parrotlet's feet. Cages are easier to keep clean if they have pull out trays with grates. Food and water should be placed so they are not soiled by droppings. Use open food dishes as parrotlets often will not stick their heads into a dish with a hood and can starve. Water should be provided in a glass tube fountain or rodent type waterer. Often, parrotlets use their water dishes to bathe in and will splash out all of the water. Breeding pairs should have nest boxes that are six inches wide by ten inches tall and seven inches deep, which should be hung on the outside of the cage and filled with untreated pine shavings to within two inches of the nest box hole. Boxes should be placed on the front of the cages so when the parrotlets look out, they only see the inside of their cage. This will help them to feel more secure. Some parrotlets, particularly Green Rumps, are fond of throwing the nest material out of the box so be sure to keep it replaced. Babies can develop crippling orthopedic problems if left on the bare floor. Conversely, sometimes parrotlets will bury their eggs and lose them in the shavings. Mexican parrotlets seem particularly prone to this habit. If this is the case, remove the shavings a little at a time until the problems ceases or try using heavier shavings. Start checking nest boxes daily so you will be able to monitor the pairs and deal with any problems as they arise. Also, following a routine will teach the parrotlets to tolerate your inspections and intrusions. As previously mentioned, parrotlets breed best when there are more than one pair in the aviary and they can hear but not see each other. Pairs can be separated by wood barriers, foliage, burlap or even cardboard between the cages. Hand-fed parrotlets generally make the best parents as they are not as sensitive to stress and are used to people. This does not mean breeding bonded pets but parrotlets that have been hand-fed and then placed with other parrotlets in order to learn to be birds and not imprint on humans. Always be careful when checking nest boxes or working with hand-fed parrotlets. They have no fear of people and, females especially, will inflict a painful bite in order to protect their nest and young.. Parrotlets also have a much deserved reputation for not letting go once they latch on. Although they can break the skin, they really cannot do any serious damage. When removing babies, use a piece of cardboard to hold the hen back as she will not usually leave the box the way males do. Females have been known to attack babies as they were being pulled so the utmost caution must be used. Nutrition for Breeding ParrotletsBeing such active birds, parrotlets consume a great deal of fuel. Gram for gram, they eat more than a macaw. Pairs feeding babies will often consume three or more times the normal amount of food. In fact, clutch size is directly tied to the amount of food available to the parents. Volkman's seed company makes an excellent seed exclusively designed for parrotlets based on the mix we have fed at The Parrotlet Ranch for more than 20 years. It is called "Parrotlet Super" and is an excellent basic mix for parrotlets. A good-quality small hookbill or cockatiel seed mix with sunflower can also be fed. They can also be fed a commercial pelleted diet, however, parrotlets are one of the few birds who require some seed in the diet when breeding otherwise babies will feather out with stress bars. There have also been reports of mutation parrotlets having high uric acid or even kidney problems such as calcification of the kidneys when these parrotlets are fed a primarily pelleted diet. We have an article on our site entitled "Pellets and Mutations" which should be read and considered when breeding parrotlet mutations. Whether fed seeds or pellets, parrotlets still require fresh fruits, vegetables, greens, sprouted seed, egg food, whole grain breads, cooked legumes, root vegetables and grains which should be fed daily. Foods high in protein are especially important to feed to parrotlets, especially Green Rumps. Commercial foods such as Petamine, Quiko and lory dry powder are all excellent high protein foods that should be fed in addition to legumes and egg food. They can be free-fed in separate dishes. Fresh clean water must be available at all times. Powdered vitamins should be sprinkled on the soft foods several times a week. Wheat grass and Spirulina can be added to the egg food, if desired. I also like to use a small amount of bee pollen several times a week as it not only improves their health and vigor but is part of their natural diet in the wild. In Green Rump parrotlets, feeding lory dry power and bee pollen has been shown to reduce or even eliminate beak problems that can be so common with these parrotlets. We have an article on our site "Green Rump Beak Problems" that many people have found to be helpful in dealing with this situation. The importance of calcium to breeding hens cannot be stressed enough. Cuttlebone and mineral block should always be available and calcium powder should also be sprinkled on the soft foods in addition to vitamins. Most hens will devour massive amounts of cuttlebone immediately before they lay eggs. It is common for a hen to eat a six-inch cuttlebone once a week for several weeks prior to laying. Feeding foods rich in calcium such as broccoli, leafy greens and egg shells are also very important. If the hens do not receive enough calcium they will certainly become egg-bound. Breeding Parrotlets Parrotlets, particularly hens, should be at least a year old before they attempt to breed or they can become egg bound and die. Males who are too young often do not provide enough food for the hen and the babies which are then abandoned or destroyed. Young pairs can be kept with one another until they go through their first molt, then they should be separated until they are at least eleven months old. It is not uncommon to have hand-fed birds begin laying as young as seven months - which can be disastrous. The male will usually investigate the box first and when he deems it safe, will try and entice the female into it. Once mating has taken place, the hen will lay from four to eight eggs although Pacific hens have been known to produce ten fertile eggs. She will hardly leave the nest box from several days prior to laying until the last baby is gone, which can be as long as nine or ten weeks! Females lay one egg every other day. In most species, the babies take 21 days to hatch. Mexican and Yellow Face parrotlets are the exception and usually take 24. In all species of parrotlets, the females incubate the eggs and the males provide food and protection. Sometimes the hen will allow the male into the box and even incubate the eggs but this seems to be an individual preference in each pair. Hand-Feeding and Socializing As with all baby parrots, parrotlets are blind, deaf and almost naked when they hatch. Even so, they have loud cries for their tiny size as Green Rumps, Blue Wings and Spectacles can often be heard begging for food when only a few hours old. They are extremely tiny when they hatch - no larger than a bumble bee. Unlike many species of parrot, parrotlet hens begin incubating almost immediately after laying the first egg, therefore the babies hatch in the order the eggs were laid. This leaves a great deal of age difference between the oldest and youngest babies, especially in large clutches. Most breeders who hand feed, leave the babies with their parents until they are ten to fourteen days old then they can be pulled for hand-feeding. They can be banded at this time with either American or English budgie bands but not lovebird or finch bands. Babies should be placed in a brooder which is set at 89° F and checked often to make sure they are comfortable. Chicks that are younger than eight days, particularly Green Rumps and Spectacles, need a temperature of 91° or higher. They should be fed fed every four hours although they do not need to be fed during the night. Chicks younger than 10 days should be fed more frequently and given a 2:00 a.m. feeding. Parrotlets can be fed with a spoon or syringe. Ten-day old babies generally take between one and two cc’s per feeding, gradually working up to a maximum of six by the age of three weeks. Babies also need to be cuddled and socialized in order to become the best possible pets. Babies that are simply fed and put back in the brooder with little or no interaction are not as sweet and do not bond as well to their new owners. However, they will make good breeders especially if placed with other parrotlets right after weaning. Also, they should be exposed to as many things as possible to keep them from becoming nervous or easily frightened. I keep my babies in the living room and they are surrounded by the television, people coming and going, the vacuum, other pets and a host of different things so they are very calm and sociable. The sex of parrotlet babies can be determined when they are about three weeks old. By the time their pin feathers are growing in, you can see the blue feathers of the males. Mexicans, Spectacles and Blue Wings sometimes take as long as their first molt to produce the blue feathering on the rump, but it is evident on the wings as soon as they begin to feather out. Color enhancement after the first molt can also occur in various species such as the hens of the Pacific subspecies. We have several excellent pages on breeding color mutation parrotlets including descriptions, Punnett's Squares and Percentage Charts. You can find that information at "Breeding Color Mutations" on our site. Weaning Babies show an interest in solid foods when they are approximately four to five weeks old. They should be given millet spray, finely chopped fruits, vegetables and greens, whole grain bread, small seeds such as finch and cockatiel, pellets, cooked rice and pasta. Dry foods are scattered over the bottom of the container; cooked foods are placed in flat dishes. The temperature in the brooder is gradually lowered to room temperature as the babies feather out. At about five weeks, they are placed in a large weaning cage with low perches and food is fed on paper plates or small flat dishes placed on the bottom of the cage. By the time most species of parrotlets are six or seven weeks of age, they are usually completely weaned. Green Rumps can take as long as eight weeks and Spectacles take at least eight to ten weeks. However, all birds are individuals, if one is weaning more slowly than the others, they should continue to be fed.. It is better to continue feeding a few more days than have a tragedy. Also be sure to provide plenty of toys and a variety of perches for the babies so they will learn how to play and grow up healthy and well-adjusted.
Fostering In the event parents will not feed their babies, it is possible to foster them under other parrotlets or even other birds. Both Borkes parakeets and budgies will feed baby parrotlets. Cockatiels will not. This is because parakeet babies are born naked like parrotlets and cockatiel babies are covered with downy fuzz. Avoid pulling parrotlet babies younger than four days for hand-feeding if at all possible. They need to be fed every 30-60 minutes around the clock until they are three to four days old. Not a very pleasant experience and most people become exhausted after the first 24-48 hours.
Parent-Raised Babies Parent-raised babies usually do not make good pets but there are exceptions. Sometimes it is possible to allow the parents to feed the babies and remove them several times a day to be handled. However, this is more the exception than the rule and many parrotlet pairs, especially Pacifics, will attack the chicks if they are removed and replaced. This is probably due to the predation factor in the wild so be extremely careful. Green Rumps seem to be more tolerant of this routine; but then again, they are sensitive and may not attack the chicks but may abandon them. If you allow parents to raise their babies, be sure and remove the father when the babies fledge or he may attack or even kill the male offspring. The mother can continue to feed them until they wean and then the babies can be moved to their own cage. Aggression When I first started breeding parrotlets, they had a very bad reputation for being cannibals and killing their young. I believe it was because they were housed incorrectly and fed improperly and inadequately. Females do tend to be the more defensive of the two and I attribute this to the hen staying in the nest protecting the young while the male is off foraging. In the event I have "spousal abusers" I simply clip the aggressor's wings and things settle down. This works for parrotlets that kill their babies as well as attack their mate. I have been breeding parrotlets since 1984 and rarely have aggression between pairs or with young. Record Keeping As with any good breeding program, accurate records are a must. Each baby should be closed-banded and all information as to parent identification, date egg was laid, date of hatch, date baby was pulled and medical or veterinary information should be recorded. In addition, babies should be weighed each morning prior to their first feeding so as to monitor gains and losses. Parrotlets are too small to be micro-chipped so closed-banding is the only way to identify the bird. More and more states are mandating that captive-bred birds be closed-banded. This may also be a requirement of the Federal under the Animal Welfare Act as well. Banding is completely safe when the proper size band is used. Use only American or English budgie bands. Never use lovebird which not only is easily caught on items but can be put on the leg of a full-grown parrotlet. The only exception is Yellow Face parrotlets which need lovebird bands as the others are too small. The International Parrotlet Society also sells registered appropriately sized parrotlet bands to their members. These bands allow people to trace parrotlets back to their breeders and have facilitated the return of lost parrotlets when the birds have escaped or been stolen. IPS has a database of breeder band identification that goes back to the Society's inception in 1992. Proper Equipment & Disinfection & Hygiene As with all bird breeding operations, the proper equipment will often determine the success or failure of the endeavor. The old adage of 'it takes money to make money' is especially true when it comes to breeding birds. Breeders must invest in the appropriate equipment from high-quality brooders, to scales, feeding equipment, bands, etc. We have a page on our site entitled "Going From a Pet Owner to A Breeder" that everyone considering breeding parrotlets should read. It explains in detail the sacrifices of time, energy and resources as well as considerations such as quarantine areas, nursery set up and the required equipment. Also, cleanliness and sterilization is an absolute must. While common chlorine bleach is okay for disinfecting most equipment such as feeding dishes, cages, baskets, tubs and scales, a virucide/pseudomonacide should be used for soaking syringes, feeding spoons, brooders and anything that has been in contact with either babies or a sick bird. Also, use common sense such as never bringing strange babies into the nursery and always quarantining new birds for at least 60 days. Whether breeding parrotlets for the pet market or trying to establish captive breeding cooperatives for conservation, these diminutive parrots have a lot to offer. They are beautiful, intelligent, quiet, hardy and relatively easy to breed. Hopefully, as aviculturists, we can find a place in our hearts as well as our aviaries for these fascinating birds so they will be available for future generations.
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