|
|
|
I love to hand feed baby birds. If I live to be 100
years old, I will still be hand feeding baby birds. I feel the greatest miracle
of life, is not the hatching of a baby but seeing it grow before your very eyes.
This is nurturing at its best and can be one of the most rewarding experiences
in breeding birds. Or, it can be a complete disaster that may cause a breeder to
give up entirely. It all comes down to know what, when and how to hand feed
babies properly. Equipment It is imperative to have the right equipment. This
means having a brooder, scale, and thermometers, syringes, weaning cages, toys,
feeding dishes and identification leg bands. Whether you have one pair of birds
or a hundred, are raising cockatiels or hyacinth macaws, it is your
responsibility as a breeder to have the correct equipment. Although breeding
birds is probably just a hobby, you need to treat your birds as a professional.
Sure, you will hear about people who get by with a heating pad instead of a
brooder or a postal scale instead of a digital gram scale, but you need to have
the optimum equipment in order to have the optimum babies. Remember that these
items are not expenses but an investment. These items will last just about
forever if cared for properly. Also, you will almost always make your money back
on the first batch of babies. Believe me, you will not forgive yourself if your
brooder breaks down and overheats your babies or they get sour crop from not
being heated properly. Always keep your bird equipment separate from the
rest of the family items. This is especially true for cups, spoons, bowls and
feeding utensils. This will prevent cross contamination thereby keeping your
family and your birds healthy and happy. Hand-Feeding
Methods Educate yourself not just on hand-feeding techniques,
but on your particular type of bird's needs. All parrots are not the same in
their nutritional and psychological requirements. For instance, it is very easy
to spoil baby cockatoos that can often make them neurotic and difficult pets.
However, birds such as parrotlets, needs lots of social interaction while they
are being hand-fed in order to make them into sweet pets that are not
aggressive. Joining a Specialty organization that works only with that
particular genus and/or species. The American Federation of Aviculture has 24
affiliated Specialty organizations and can help you get in touch with the proper
club. There are three different techniques of hand-feeding.
The original method and some breeders still use it, is spoon-feeding. A spoon is
bent and shaped to fit the chick's beak and is used as a surrogate parent's
beak. Many people feel this is the best way to hand-feed since it allows the
chick to feed more naturally, therefore, eliminating the possibility of
aspiration (getting food into the lungs) and crop burns. However, many breeders
find it messy and time consuming especially if they have a lot of babies to
feed. The second and probably most common method is syringe
feeding. This involves using a syringe to deposit the food directly into the
chicks' mouth. It is imperative to have the proper size syringe for the chick
being fed. For very tiny chicks, some people use a pipette or a special tip on
the end of the syringe. I prefer to use plastic infusion candulas especially for
very tiny babies such as day one parrotlets (about the size of a bumblebee). It
is difficult to burn a crop in a syringe fed bird because they will almost
always spit the formula out if it is too hot. Also, I have never aspirated a
baby with a syringe. The third method is actually two methods in one.
"Gavage" feeding is when a metal tube (called a needle although it is
blunt on the end not sharp) is inserted directly into the crop so food can be
deposited. "Tube feeding" also uses the food-directly-into-the-crop
method but soft surgical tubing is used instead of a gavage needle. Gavage
feeding has become somewhat controversial in the last couple of years as some
breeders and especially behaviorists believe it feeds the chicks so quickly,
that they do not get the socialization and "one-on-one" time with the
hand-feeder. However, other breeders are quick to point out that if they feed
this way, they have more time to play and socialize their babies not less.
Again, it is it important to get as
much information and education about your particular type of bird from
experienced breeders. Hand-Feeding
Formulas When I first started, there was no such thing as
manufactured hand-feeding formula. Most of us used the "monkey chow,
peanut, baby food" grind-it-yourself formulas of the 1970's and early
1980's. Thank goodness, we now have many, many different companies manufacturing
hand-feeding formula. It is important to talk to different people to find out
what formula is best for your birds. Some manufacturers, such as Pretty Bird and
Roudybush, now manufacture different formulas for the nutritional requirements
of various bird species. The following is a table of various hand-feeding
formulas and their protein and fat percentages:
Supplements and
Probiotics Lately, there has been much discussion about adding
supplements to hand-feeding formula. All the manufacturers claim their formulas
are complete and no supplements need to be added. However, some breeders feel
supplements have benefits for their birds. The following is a list of
supplements commonly found and their benefits: Avian Medicine Chest - Makes products from herbs,
flowers and other natural ingredients. Call "probiotics" these
products use the birds' own immune systems to help improve function. They have
vast number of products including Pro-Bac chick that encourages the growth of
"good" bacteria and improves the chick's resistance to disease. They
also make Trace Minerals to help restore the natural balance of minerals often
not contained in many hand-feeding formulas. Bee Pollen - Bee pollen is the only food known that
contains all the amino acids needed for life. In addition, bee pollen, as well
as, royal jelly and propolis (plant enzymes) contain trace minerals,
carbohydrates and Omega-3 fatty acids. It also improves the birds' digestion to
maximize absorption. Instant Ounces™ - Instant Ounces is not a
supplement but a highly concentrated low fat high carbohydrate food. It is
designed to feed day one babies up to a few week old (depending on the bird). It
will help put weight on undersized babies but is NOT designed to be added to the
formula for the entire feeding period. It can also be used for sick or ill birds
for quick energy including adults. It also good to give birds that are being
treated with antibiotics as it helps restore the "good" bacteria often
destroyed by antibiotic use. Wheat Grass Powder - Made from wheat grass, wheat
grass powder is rich in fiber and electrolytes as well as vegetable protein,
iron, potassium, Vitamin K and naturally chelated minerals. Wheat grass powder
is highly concentrated and has many times the nutritional potency of green
vegetables. Spirulina - Spirulina is blue green algae harvested
from the sea. Spirulina is very high in protein and very low in fat. It is used
to improve fertility and strengthen the immune system as well as enhances
feather structure and color. Often used with wheat grass powder. Disinfectants Disinfectants are one of the things often overlooked
but they are one of the most important aspect of your nursery program.
Disinfectants can keep your birds healthy and disease free but they must be used
correctly and for the purpose for which they were designed. Even the best
disinfectant will not work if the object on which they are to be used is not
clean. Before you disinfect anything, makes sure you scrub it well with soap and
water and be sure and rinse it very well. Common Clorox bleach is a great disinfectant for most
uses. Its great for cleaning cages, counter tops and floors. It is cheap and
very effective provided it is used correctly. You must let it sit for at least
30 minutes on the item being disinfected and be sure it's diluted properly (1
cup bleach to 1 gallon of water). Warm water works best. Vanodine is an iodine complex cleaner. Many breeders
use it to disinfect their brooders, syringes and other items that come in
contact with babies. It is non-toxic when used properly and has been used to
control fungal/yeast infections by adding it directly to the water. Again,
follow the manufacturer's instructions exactly. Wavecide is a very powerful disinfectant and is also
very toxic. Gloves must be used when handling Wavecide but it kills everything
including pseudamonas, polyoma and TB. I use Wavecide to soak my syringes in as
well as cleaning my brooders, hospital cages and quarantine area. Hand-Feeding
Technique No matter which method of hand-feeding you prefer,
the technique and skills used are basically the same. Before you remove the
chick from the brooder, arrange your materials and implements. Place a paper
towel on a clean towel on the table you will using. Prepare a clean baby
container with shavings or other substrate. Heat water to almost boiling (Have your tap water
checked for heavy metals and pathogens or use bottled or filtered water.) Place
the formula in a bowl and mix with hot water according to the manufacturer's
instructions. Mix the formula to the appropriate consistency and check
temperature with thermometer. Most chicks will take formula between 102°F-105°F.
I also test it on my wrist to make sure it is not too hot. Remove the chick from the brooder and place it on the
paper towel. Only feed one chick at a time. This way you will not lose track of
who needs to be fed nor can they run over the edge of the table and possibly
injure themselves. I always keep a container of hot water next to me
while feeding. Remove the feeding implement from the disinfectant. Rinse it well
in the cup of hot water. Fill with formula. If spoon or syringe feeding, dip
edge or tip into the hot water and place it against the left side of the chick's
mouth. It will open it immediately and you can gently pour the contents of the
spoon or gently depress the syringe into the chick's mouth. The crop is located
on the right side of the bird's body so always feed from left to right. If
gavage feeding, carefully insert the tube or needle into the mouth, over the
tongue, down the esophagus and into the crop. Depress the contents of the
syringe into the crop. Repeat until the crop is full and gently rounded. If the chick is going to be a pet, spend a few
minutes cuddling and stroking it. Talk softly and let it become used to the
sound of your voice. Socialization is very important to the development of most
if not all parrot species and establishes its mental and social abilities
throughout its life. If the chick is destined to become a breeder, feed it
and return it to the brooder. You do not want it to imprint it on humans as you
would a pet, but want it to remember that it is a bird. As soon as these chicks
are weaned, they should be placed with others of their kind in a flocking
situation. Many breeders use a separate syringe or spoon for
each chick in order to halt the spread of disease. Breeders of smaller birds,
often use one implement per clutch but the reasons are the same. It is not
recommended to use the same feeding implements on multiple chicks. Always throw out any unused formula. NEVER reuse
formula. If I am feeding and am interrupted, I will throw out the formula and
make fresh. Hand-feeding formula is rich in nutrients and will almost
immediately start growing bacteria so always throw out any left over formula. Use a thermometer while feeding to check the
temperature. Many chicks will not feed if the formula cools off. If it does cool
too much, microwave it for a few SECONDS and stir well. Check the temperature
again before feeding. Cool formula can also cause a slow crop and/or yeast
infections. It is important to record each chick's weight on a
daily basis. This will let you know it is healthy and growing properly. Often,
the first sign of a problem is weight loss. Find out what is the proper weight
gain for the species you are working with. Again, membership in a Specialty
organization can help you find the information you need. Always weigh the chicks
prior to their first feeding. Weaning The two most dangerous times in a bird's life are
hatching and weaning. This is very important to remember. Do not rush a chick
into weaning as it can be deadly. Many chicks have starved to death because they
were weaned too quickly. Also, many behaviorists believe that anti-social
behavior can be attributed to weaning too young or too quick. As the chicks feather out, you can gradually reduce
the temperature of the brooder. When the chicks are fully-feathered and ready,
place them in a cage with low perches and toys. Food should be placed in flat
dishes on the cage bottom. Millet, seed, pellets and fresh chopped fruits and
vegetables should be placed on the cage floor along with a shallow dish of
water. Continue to hand-feed them although many species will need less frequent
feedings as they grow older. I prefer to simply lengthen the amount of time
between feedings rather than miss or skip them. Make sure you monitor their
weight. It is normal for weaning chicks to lose a little bit of weight but large
drops could indicate the chick is not eating enough. Increase the number of
feedings if the chicks are consistently losing weight. Record Keeping It is imperative to keep accurate records on every
baby your birds produce. Since 1992, the United States has banned the import of
most birds into the country. Therefore, we only have the birds already here to
work with. This means we must keep track of bloodlines in order to have the best
possible genetic future for our birds. Also, as the human population increases
and the rainforest decreases, captive breeding becomes the only option for the
survival of many birds species. Zoos and conservationists have acknowledged that
private aviculturists are in a far better position to save the greatest number
of bird species and we must live up to that responsibility. Every bird needs to be banded and/or microchipped in
order to identify it. Indeed, many states require that birds be banded including
Colorado, New York, Georgia and New Jersey. All birds should be banded with the
appropriate size, closed band. Each band should contain a number as well as the
breeder's identification code. Many bird societies such as the American
Federation of Aviculture and the Society of Parrot Breeders and Exhibitors sell
bands and register the birds of their members. I also include the year and state
on my bands. I also use different colors to denote various bloodlines. This
allows me to make pairs without having to catch birds to see if they are
unrelated. There are many computer programs available for
aviculturists. I prefer AviMate for its ease of use and ability to keep track of
many birds and their offspring. There are many others available including some
on the Internet that are free. Before the computer, I used simple 3" x
5" cards and a calendar. It does not have to be elaborate or expensive.
Just accurate and up to date. It is also important to keep track of your buyers.
This way, you will be able to make unrelated pairs if they decide to purchase
from you in the future. Its also important to give a receipt and a written
health guarantee with the bird sale. This will protect you and keep your buyer
informed as well as give a professional appearance to your operation. |
|